What is Oud?

Oud, also known as agarwood, is one of the most coveted and valuable fragrance ingredients in the world. It is derived from the resinous heartwood of the Aquilaria tree. Also known as the Agar tree, which is native to parts of Southeast Asia, India, and the Middle East. However, not all Aquilaria trees produce oud. The process begins when a specific type of mold infects the tree. As a defense mechanism, the tree produces a dark, aromatic resin that eventually hardens and becomes the rich, fragrant substance we call oud. This resin has a deep and complex scent profile. 

It is often described as warm, woody, and slightly sweet, with notes of leather, spices, and a touch of earthiness. The uniqueness of oud lies not only in its rich scent but also in the labor-intensive process required to harvest and extract it. This rarity and the long maturation period of the resin make oud one of the most expensive perfume ingredients globally, sometimes even referred to as "liquid gold."

Oud, perfumes and oils

Oud is often used in perfumes and oils, as well as for religious ceremonies, incense, and aromatherapy. Its rich and multifaceted scent appeals to many cultures and is especially prominent in the Middle East, where it has been cherished for centuries. Due to its potent and long-lasting fragrance, a small amount of oud can have a profound olfactory impact, making it a favorite among perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike. The rarity, craftsmanship, and cultural significance associated with oud add to its mystique and allure, making it an ingredient that commands both respect and high value in the fragrance industry.

History of Oud

The history of oud dates back thousands of years. And it is deeply intertwined with various cultures and spiritual practices, particularly in the Middle East, Southeast Asia, and India. Oud has been revered for its spiritual, medicinal, and aromatic qualities, making it an essential part of many ancient rituals and traditions. In the Middle East, oud has long been used in religious ceremonies, where its smoke is believed to have purifying qualities. The burning of oud incense was, and still is, a common practice in temples, religious places, but also in homes and shops. 

In addition to its religious significance, oud has been a symbol of luxury and status for centuries. In ancient times, it was used as a perfume by royalty and the wealthy elite. Using it as an “oud perfume”. It was also a key ingredient in traditional medicine, where it was believed to have healing properties, including the ability to treat anxiety, digestive issues, and respiratory conditions. Oud's complex, woody fragrance made it highly sought after, not only for personal use but also for trade. It became a valuable commodity along ancient trade routes. For example the Silk Road, where it was exchanged for gold, silver, and spices. The demand for oud has remained high throughout history, cementing its status as one of the most precious and expensive natural materials in the world.

India & oud perfume

India is one of the most significant producers and consumers of oud. Particularly in the northeastern regions where Aquilaria trees are naturally found. The use of oud in India has a rich history, spanning both spiritual and cultural practices. It has been widely used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries due to its therapeutic properties. Such as its ability to promote calmness, reduce stress, and improve concentration. In Indian temples, oud has been burned as incense to purify the air and create a peaceful environment for meditation and prayer. Its use is deeply rooted in Hindu and Buddhist traditions, where the fragrance is thought to connect individuals to their inner selves and enhance their spiritual journeys.

Beyond religious practices, oud has played a significant role in Indian perfumery, known locally as "Attar." Attar is an age-old Indian tradition of distilling natural oils from flowers, herbs, and woods, with oud being one of the most prized ingredients. Indian attar makers have perfected the art of blending oud with other natural essences, creating unique, complex perfumes that are still revered today. Oud's role in Indian perfumery  and oud perfumes has also influenced the global fragrance market, as India remains a key exporter of this luxurious resin to perfumers around the world.

Middle East & oud perfume

The Middle East holds a special place in the history and use of oud, where it is not only a luxury item but also a cultural symbol. Oud is deeply embedded in the fabric of Middle Eastern life, particularly in countries like Saudi Arabia, the UAE, and Oman. Where the scent is synonymous with hospitality and tradition. In these regions, it is customary to burn oud chips (bakhoor or bakhur) in homes and public spaces to welcome guests, cleanse the environment, and signify important occasions. Oud is also an essential part of daily grooming, with many Middle Eastern men and women applying oud oil or oud perfumes as a signature scent. The scent of oud has become an integral part of Middle Eastern identity. With its rich, smoky fragrance evoking feelings of warmth, elegance, and tradition.

In addition to its use in personal fragrances and incense, oud is often gifted during special occasions. Such as weddings, religious holidays, and important family gatherings. The Middle Eastern market for oud and oud perfumes is one of the largest and most discerning in the world, with consumers valuing not only the scent but also the quality and provenance of the oud itself. Perfumers in the Middle East are highly skilled at blending oud with other regional ingredients. For example rose, saffron, and amber to create rich, layered fragrances and oud perfumes that are both timeless and modern.

Methods of oud extraction

Oud extraction is a delicate process that greatly influences the quality and scent profile of the final oud oil and oud perfumes. The most widely used method is traditional water distillation, which has been practiced for centuries. In this method, the resinous wood is soaked in water for several days, after which it is slowly boiled. The steam carries the essential oils from the wood, which are then condensed and collected as oud oil. This method is time-intensive but produces a rich, complex fragrance that is highly valued for its authenticity and depth.

Another common method is steam distillation, a more modern variation that uses steam alone to extract the oil. This process is quicker and less labor-intensive, though it can sometimes yield a lighter, less concentrated oud oil compared to water distillation.

More advanced techniques like CO₂ extraction use pressurized carbon dioxide to extract the oil without exposing it to heat, preserving more of the oud’s delicate scent compounds. This method results in a purer, cleaner oil and is expensive and less commonly used.

Solvent extraction involves using chemicals to dissolve the resin and separate the oil. While efficient, this method may leave traces of solvents in the final product, affecting purity.

Oud used by House of Nisé 

Out of our profound love and respect for Mother Earth, and our commitment to crafting a better future, we utilize environmentally friendly oud in our oud perfumes. We ensure that the oud we source is harvested sustainably. Moreover, supporting ethical practices that do not contribute to deforestation or harm to natural ecosystems. By choosing an eco-friendly oud, we are not only preserving the delicate balance of nature. But also promoting the longevity of agarwood trees for future generations. This aligns with our brand's ethos of creating luxurious fragrances that are both ethically produced and environmentally conscious, allowing consumers to indulge without compromising sustainability.

The scent of oud

Oud has a deep, rich scent that is both warm and intense. Often described as woody with smoky, leathery undertones. Its complex aroma can evoke a sense of luxury and mystique, making it highly coveted in the world of perfumery. The fragrance has a musky, slightly animalistic edge, which adds to its sensual appeal. With earthy and balsamic nuances, oud perfumes create an enveloping scent experience that lingers on the skin. Making it perfect for those seeking a bold and unforgettable fragrance. Its unique character has made it a beloved ingredient in both traditional and modern perfume creations worldwide.

Oud perfume scent per region

Oud scent per region varies greatly depending on the origin of the agar tree. Environmental factors such as climate, soil, and the tree's interaction with the fungus play a crucial role in the resin’s unique characteristics. For instance, oud from India, particularly Assam, is known for its rich, earthy, and slightly bitter scent. Often with leathery and smoky undertones. Cambodian oud has a more sweet and fruity aroma. While oud from Vietnam is highly prized for its warm, spicy, and balsamic qualities. Oud sourced from Borneo, especially in Indonesia, tends to have a deeper, more resinous profile, with smoky and incense-like notes. Laotian and Thai oud are often described as musky and animalistic, adding an extra layer of depth to their fragrance. Each region's oud has a signature scent, reflecting the diverse nature of agarwood and offering a unique olfactory experience to those who wear it.

Pure oud perfume vs. blended oud perfume

Pure oud consists entirely of natural oud resin. Offering a rich, intense, and unaltered aroma that highlights the raw, earthy, and smoky qualities of the agarwood. This unblended form of oud is often prized for its depth and complexity. Making it a sought-after ingredient in luxury perfumes. In contrast, blended oud perfumes combine oud with other fragrance notes. Such as florals, fruits, spices, or woods to create a more balanced and nuanced scent. This blending process softens oud’s potency. Making it more wearable and versatile. Most oud perfumes on the market today are blended, offering a wider appeal while still capturing the essence of oud.

 

Oud perfumes at House of Nisé

We offer a variety of oud perfumes. Each with unique blends to suit different tastes. Our most premium creation of oud perfume is Scent of Abundance, a luxurious oud fragrance. This exclusive oud perfume is meticulously crafted using a blend of rare Cambodian and Indian oud. 

 

FAQ

Why does oud and the fragrance Scent of Abundance smell with the first spray?

High-quality, carefully sourced oud can initially have an unpleasant scent.  This makes sense as it's a resin produced by the tree to combat infection. We describe it as having a scent reminiscent of a baby diaper (yes, we’re aware of this comparison). However, the magic of oud lies in allowing it to settle and evolve. After a few minutes, the fragrance transforms into something entirely different. This gradual development reveals the true beauty and complexity of oud.

Is oud perfume suitable for everyday wear?

Oud perfume can be suitable for everyday wear. But it depends on the specific blend and concentration. Lighter blends of oud, often combined with floral, citrus, or fresh notes, can make it more wearable for daily use. We recommend Lift Limitless, One & Only, Pure Satisfaction and Consistent Improver for everyday wear.

Why is oud perfume often so expensive?

Oud perfume is often expensive due to the rarity and labor-intensive process of obtaining the oud resin. Only a small percentage of trees naturally produce the resin. The extraction process is really time-consuming. And, harvesting the resin requires skilled craftsmanship

Can oud perfume be layered with other perfumes? 

Yes. Oud can be layered with other perfumes to create unique and personalized scents. 
Layer oud perfumes over lighter fragrances. Such as: citrus, floral, or fresh scents. This helps balance the intensity of oud and creates a harmonious blend.